Maputo is, essentially, “Hillbrow by the sea”.
Many of the old buildings, while impressive, have been neglected, with some seemingly untouched since Mozambique’s civil war over two decades ago.
But, as in any city or destination – and that includes Hillbrow – there is plenty of historical, cultural or aesthetic interest, and a visit to Maputo should always be about more than stopping over on the way to some exotic beach or island.
Arguably the best – and certainly the most novel – way to explore the city is on the little train provided by Mozambique City Tours.
It’s one of those miniature affairs that you pop your kids onto at the zoo, and it probably wouldn’t be allowed on the road in most major cities, but in Maputo it’s ideal.
First off, you don’t need to drive, so you can wander back and forth along roads and avenues invariably named after communist dictators (play the “who ruled where?” game with your friends) without having to worry about the locals’ fairly lax attitude to stopping, indicating or parking.
Secondly, the train stops at ten major tourist spots four times a day each, so if you want to spend time in one spot and then continue your tour later, all you need to do is ensure you’re back where you were tossed out at the agreed time on the following circuit.
This is preferable to the model used in many such programmes, where you’re stuck with your guide and his or her route regardless of how much overlap there is in your fields of interest.
Major attractions include the railway station, a beautiful building featuring a bronze dome designed by no less than Gustave Eiffel.
It has a Victorian feel, but is also the home of a fantastic bar and restaurant – once you’re finished doing the tourist thing, make that your default haunt in the city.
Eiffel also designed an architectural oddity on the other side of town – the Iron House, adjacent to the modest botanical gardens.
It’s a building constructed entirely of steel and was supposed to be the residence of the Governor General of Mozambique. Do some calculations, though: subtropical heat and humidity plus metal walls that warm up in the sun.
The governor made other plans.
The political landscape (in literal terms, ie the buildings occupied by politicians based in the city) is also interesting.
Wander through the area where most of the government officials have their houses and you’ll see street signs forbidding photography.
But, on having the leader of the opposition’s house pointed out to us by our tour guide, it’s impossible not to notice that one-legged octogenarians could ransack the place without worrying about the “security system”. It’s a far cry from our leaders in their gated communities.
Also, as in any African city, prioritise a visit to the markets.
The Central Market has all the expected arts and crafts, but also a wide range of local foodstuffs, from seafood (take your chances) to cheap, salted and roasted cashew nuts by the kilogram (delicious).
The Saturday Market at Praca 25 de Junho caters more specifically for the souvenir seeker.
Don’t forget to haggle.
Many of the old buildings, while impressive, have been neglected, with some seemingly untouched since Mozambique’s civil war over two decades ago.
But, as in any city or destination – and that includes Hillbrow – there is plenty of historical, cultural or aesthetic interest, and a visit to Maputo should always be about more than stopping over on the way to some exotic beach or island.
Arguably the best – and certainly the most novel – way to explore the city is on the little train provided by Mozambique City Tours.
It’s one of those miniature affairs that you pop your kids onto at the zoo, and it probably wouldn’t be allowed on the road in most major cities, but in Maputo it’s ideal.
First off, you don’t need to drive, so you can wander back and forth along roads and avenues invariably named after communist dictators (play the “who ruled where?” game with your friends) without having to worry about the locals’ fairly lax attitude to stopping, indicating or parking.
Secondly, the train stops at ten major tourist spots four times a day each, so if you want to spend time in one spot and then continue your tour later, all you need to do is ensure you’re back where you were tossed out at the agreed time on the following circuit.
This is preferable to the model used in many such programmes, where you’re stuck with your guide and his or her route regardless of how much overlap there is in your fields of interest.
Major attractions include the railway station, a beautiful building featuring a bronze dome designed by no less than Gustave Eiffel.
It has a Victorian feel, but is also the home of a fantastic bar and restaurant – once you’re finished doing the tourist thing, make that your default haunt in the city.
Eiffel also designed an architectural oddity on the other side of town – the Iron House, adjacent to the modest botanical gardens.
It’s a building constructed entirely of steel and was supposed to be the residence of the Governor General of Mozambique. Do some calculations, though: subtropical heat and humidity plus metal walls that warm up in the sun.
The governor made other plans.
The political landscape (in literal terms, ie the buildings occupied by politicians based in the city) is also interesting.
Wander through the area where most of the government officials have their houses and you’ll see street signs forbidding photography.
But, on having the leader of the opposition’s house pointed out to us by our tour guide, it’s impossible not to notice that one-legged octogenarians could ransack the place without worrying about the “security system”. It’s a far cry from our leaders in their gated communities.
Also, as in any African city, prioritise a visit to the markets.
The Central Market has all the expected arts and crafts, but also a wide range of local foodstuffs, from seafood (take your chances) to cheap, salted and roasted cashew nuts by the kilogram (delicious).
The Saturday Market at Praca 25 de Junho caters more specifically for the souvenir seeker.
Don’t forget to haggle.
BRUCE DENNILL, The Citizen, 11/12/09
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